An Overview of Retinoids
What are retinoids?
Retinoids are a group of vitamin A-based compounds that bind to and activate retinoic acid receptors in the skin to promote cell proliferation (when cells grow & divide to increase in number) and differentiation (when cells turns into a specialized cells). This in turn promotes the turnover of dead skin cells and boosts the production of collagen and elastin.
What are the benefits of retinoids?
Decrease & prevent pigmentation
Decrease & prevent fine lines and wrinkles
Increase collagen & elastin production
Increase skin cell turnover
Help prevent & heal acne
Unclog pores
Reduce inflammation (when used correctly)
What are the different types of retinoids?
There are 4 categories of retinoids:
Retinyl esters - least potent and most stable (available over-the-counter)
Retinol - in between (available over-the-counter)
Retinaldehyde - most potent and most difficult to stabilize (available over-the-counter)
Retinoic acid - active form (only available as a prescription)
Prescription retinoids contain retinoic acid, while over-the-counter have to go through a few conversions to become retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is the active form of vitamin A which the skin recognizes and uses.
Conversion sequence:
Retinyl esters --> Retinol --> Retinaldehyde --> Retinoic acid
Presciption retinoids
Trifarotene
Fourth generation retinoid
Targets the RAR receptor in the epidermis
Used for acne
Tretinoin (Retin-A, Renova)
First generation retinoid
Comes in strengths .025%, .05%, 1%
Used for fine lines & wrinkles and acne
Used off-label for keratosis pilaris, actinic keratosis, & hyperpigmentation
Tazarotene (Tazorac)
Third generation retinoid
Used to treat acne and psoriasis
Most potent of retinoids
Adapalene
Third generation retinoid
Most gentle of all prescription retinoids
Used for treating acne
You can now get it over-the-counter in 0.1% strength
Least prone to photo degradation, so can be used in the daytime
Used off label for pigmentation, fine lines & wrinkles, & actinic keratosis
Isotretinoin (Accutane)
Comes in pill form and is very strong
Used for cystic acne
Over-the-counter (OTC) retinoids
Retinol
Less irritating because goes through a few conversions to become retinoic acid
Bakuchiol
Plant-based "retinol"
Imitates retinol to a degree because of its anti-aging properties, but hasn't gone through proper long-term trials to know if it's really comparable
Retinal/Retinaldehyde
Delivers anti-aging benefits up to 11x faster than retinol
Very unstable molecule
Retinyl esters
Least irritating of OTC retinoids
There are claims that because it has to go through so many conversions, the likeliness of it delivering to the skin as retinoic acid is low
Encapsulated retinoids - the best OTC retinoids (IMO)
Encapsulated retinol is enclosed in tiny capsules that allow it to penetrate deeper into the skin before activating. Due to its slow-release mechanism, encapsulated retinol is generally milder than traditional retinol, reducing the likelihood of irritation. This makes it a great choice for those who are new to retinol or who have sensitive skin. The encapsulation also shields the retinol from degradation from oxygen and light.
Are retinoids exfoliants?
Retinoids work similarly to alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) exfoliants by promoting skin cell turnover. However, they are not an exfoliant because they cannot break the bonds that hold dead skin cells to the surface.
My Opinion
Retinoids are essential in every skincare regimen because of their proven benefits to enhance overall skin health (dating back to the 1980's).
I have reservations about trusting the retinol from some skincare brands because it's impossible to verify the actual percentage of retinoid in the formulation or ensure it hasn't degraded during shipping. There’s no standard requirement for testing these factors. The reason this is especially important to consider is because retinoids are notoriously volatile ingredients that can break down when exposed to air, sun, and heat. A retinoid is such an important ingredient in your skincare routine that you want to trust that it is 100% effective. That's why, if my clients’ skin can handle it, I often recommend prescription retinoids. Despite being potentially more irritating, they are effective and must meet strict regulations.
Currently, the only other retinols I trust are from Jan Marini Skin Research and GlyMed+, primarily because I’ve had direct conversations with them and have built confidence in their products.
