An Overview of Retinoids

What are Retinoids?

Retinoids are a group of vitamin A-based compounds that work by binding to and activating retinoic acid receptors in the skin. This action stimulates cell proliferation (where skin cells grow and multiply) and cell differentiation (where cells mature into specialized types). As a result, retinoids help speed up the turnover of dead skin cells while boosting the production of collagen and elastin, two key proteins that keep skin firm, smooth, and youthful.

Benefits of Retinoids

• Reduce and prevent pigmentation for a more even skin tone

• Minimize fine lines and wrinkles by promoting collagen and elastin production

• Boost collagen and elastin to improve skin firmness and elasticity

• Increase skin cell turnover to reveal fresher, smoother skin

• Help prevent and heal acne by unclogging pores and reducing breakouts

• Reduce inflammation when used properly, calming irritated skin

The Different Types of Retinoids

Retinoids come in four main categories, each varying in potency and stability:

1. Retinyl Esters

   • Least potent but the most stable form

   • Available over-the-counter (OTC)

   • Requires multiple conversions in the skin before becoming active retinoic acid

2. Retinol

   • Moderate potency and stability

   • Also available OTC

   • Converts to retinaldehyde and then retinoic acid within the skin

3. Retinaldehyde

   • More potent than retinol but harder to stabilize in formulations

   • Available OTC

   • Converts directly to retinoic acid in the skin

4. Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin)

   • The active form of vitamin A that the skin can use immediately

   • Only available by prescription

   • Does not require conversion and delivers the most potent effects

Prescription retinoids contain retinoic acid, which means they work faster and more effectively, while over-the-counter retinoids like retinol and retinaldehyde need to undergo conversion in the skin before becoming active.

Conversion sequence:

Retinyl esters --> Retinol --> Retinaldehyde --> Retinoic acid

Presciption Retinoids

Trifarotene

• Fourth generation retinoid

• Targets the RAR receptor in the epidermis

• Used for acne

Tretinoin (Retin-A, Renova)

• First generation retinoid

• Comes in strengths .025%, .05%, 1%

• Used for fine lines & wrinkles and acne

• Used off-label for keratosis pilaris, actinic keratosis, & hyperpigmentation

Tazarotene (Tazorac)

• Third generation retinoid

• Used to treat acne and psoriasis

• Most potent of retinoids

Adapalene

• Third generation retinoid

• Most gentle of all prescription retinoids

• Used for treating acne

• You can now get it over-the-counter in 0.1% strength

• Least prone to photo degradation, so can be used in the daytime

• Used off label for pigmentation, fine lines & wrinkles, & actinic keratosis

Isotretinoin (Accutane)

• Comes in pill form and is very strong

• Used for cystic acne

Over-The-Counter (OTC) Retinoids

Retinol

• Less irritating because goes through a few conversions to become retinoic acid

Bakuchiol

• Plant-based "retinol"

• Imitates retinol to a degree because of its anti-aging properties, but hasn't gone through proper long-term trials to know if it's really comparable

Retinal/Retinaldehyde

• Delivers anti-aging benefits up to 11x faster than retinol

• Very unstable molecule

Retinyl esters

• Least irritating of OTC retinoids

• The likelihood of a significant portion making it all the way to retinoic acid is relatively low

Encapsulated Retinoids

Encapsulated retinol is a form of retinol that’s been enclosed in a protective, time-release delivery system, often made of lipids or polymers. This outer “shell” helps control how and when the retinol is released into the skin.

Instead of all the retinol being delivered at once (which can cause irritation), encapsulation slows down the release, allowing it to penetrate deeper into the skin more gradually and with less irritation.

Benefits of Encapsulated Retinol:

• Gentler on sensitive skin

• More stable (less likely to degrade in sunlight or air)

• Improved absorption into deeper skin layers

• Time-release effect for better tolerance and consistent results

This technology makes encapsulated retinol a great choice for beginners, sensitive skin types, or anyone wanting the benefits of retinol without the common side effects like peeling or redness.

Are Retinoids Exfoliants?

Technically no, but they do promote skin cell turnover, which can sometimes mimic the effects of exfoliation.

Exfoliants (like AHAs, BHAs, or scrubs) work by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin, either through physical abrasion or by dissolving the bonds between skin cells.

Retinoids in comparison work deeper in the skin by stimulating cell proliferation and differentiation, basically encouraging your skin to make new cells faster and shed the older ones naturally. This increased turnover often results in smoother, brighter skin, which is why they’re sometimes mistaken for exfoliants.

Important Note:

Because retinoids already encourage cell turnover, adding exfoliants on top of retinoid use can sometimes lead to over-exfoliation, resulting in dryness, irritation, or a damaged skin barrier. If you’re using both, it’s important to space them out and work with a professional to create a balanced routine.

Why I’m Picky About Retinoids

Retinoids have been a cornerstone of effective skincare since the 1980s, thanks to their proven ability to improve skin health, support collagen production, and reduce signs of aging. But not all retinoids are created equal and as a professional, I’m cautious about where they come from.

One concern I have with many over-the-counter retinol products is the lack of transparency. Most brands don’t disclose the actual percentage of retinoid in the formula, and there’s no standard requirement for testing potency or stability. This matters because retinoids are notoriously unstable because they break down easily when exposed to air, heat, or light, meaning your product may lose effectiveness before it ever touches your skin.

Because retinoids are such a powerful and essential part of a routine, I believe you should be able to trust that yours is 100% effective. That’s why, if your skin can tolerate it, I often recommend prescription retinoids. They’re more regulated, and while they can be a bit more intense, they deliver consistently reliable results.

Outside of prescriptions, the only over-the-counter retinols I fully trust are from Marini Skin Solutions. This is a brand I’ve personally spoken with and whose formulations I’ve seen work consistently well for myself and for my clients.