What Is The Difference Between Mineral & Chemical Sunscreens?
Protecting your skin from UV damage is essential, and sunscreen is non-negotiable. As an esthetician in NYC, I often guide clients on choosing between mineral and chemical sunscreens. Both protect from harmful rays, but they work differently, impact skin comfort, and even affect the environment. Here’s how to choose the best option for your skin and my professional pick for the top sunscreen.
How Mineral Sunscreens Work
Mineral sunscreens, also called physical sunscreens, use natural mineral ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide to sit on top of your skin and physically block or reflect UV rays, as well as absorb UV rays, transfer them into heat, and release them from the skin.
Active ingredients: Zinc oxide, titanium dioxide
How they work: Create a protective shield that deflects UVA & UVB rays
Best for: Sensitive skin, acne-prone skin and truly everyone
Pros of Mineral Sunscreens:
Provide broad-spectrum protection immediately after application
Less likely to cause irritation or allergic reactions
Frequently recommended by dermatologists and estheticians for compromised skin and sensitive skin conditions like rosacea, eczema, and dermatitis
More stable in sunlight… no rapid breakdown like some chemical filters
Cons of Mineral Sunscreens:
Can leave a white cast (especially on deeper skin tones)
Thicker texture that may feel heavier under makeup (exception: Colorescience mineral sunscreens, which have an elegant, lightweight finish)
How Chemical Sunscreens Work
Chemical sunscreens contain synthetic compounds like avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, or octinoxate. These absorb UV rays, convert them into heat, and release them from the skin.
Active ingredients available in the US: Avobenzone, octocrylene, octisalate, oxybenzone
How they work: Absorb UV light, then dissipate it as heat
Best for: Those wanting lightweight, invisible coverage
Pros of Chemical Sunscreens:
Lightweight and sheer formulas that layer beautifully under makeup
No white cast and ideal for deeper skin tones
Easy to apply evenly for everyday wear
Cons of Chemical Sunscreens:
Require 20–30 minutes to become effective after application
Frequently cause burning and stinging of the eyes
Can trigger irritation, stinging, or breakouts in sensitive skin
Some filters degrade faster in sunlight meaning frequent reapplication is essential
Certain ingredients contribute to coral reef damage and are banned in some regions
Which Should You Choose?
In my professional opinion… mineral all the way.
If you don’t like the look or feel of mineral sunscreen, try applying mineral formulas around the eyes (where chemical sunscreens are most likely to sting) and using a chemical formula elsewhere.
My top picks are any Colorescience mineral sunscreen. They’re reef-safe, non-irritating, have no heavy feel, and blend seamlessly without leaving a white cast. They also come in tinted options that give your skin a healthy glow.
Pro Tip from Your Esthetician
No matter which sunscreen you choose, application and reapplication are the real game changers. Use about a nickel-sized amount for the face and reapply every 2 hours, especially after sweating or swimming.
If you hate reapplying your liquid sunscreen, try an alternative sunscreen that’s designed exclusively for reapplying. Colorescience Brush-On Shield SPF 50 is the best option for sunscreen reapplication. It’s a portable mineral powder sunscreen that you can dust right over your base coat sunscreen and makeup if you are wearing it. It’s no mess and provides no white cast, even on the deepest skin tones.
Final Thoughts
Both mineral and chemical sunscreens can be effective. What matters most is finding one you’ll actually wear every single day. If you’re not sure where to start, I can recommend options tailored to your skin type, lifestyle, and esthetic preferences at your next facial.
Keep your skin protected and radiant with guidance from Millie Esthetics, your trusted esthetician in NYC. From custom facials to expert skincare advice, we help you maintain healthy, youthful skin. Book your NYC facial today.
